DARK CIRCLES

Most eye creams do very little other than moisturise the skin’s surface and therefore temporarily plump up fine lines and wrinkles due to their hydration effects. One thing that a lot of people don’t know is that  common skincare problems like ‘eye bags’ or puffiness are, in fact, different to dark circles or shadows underneath the eye.

‘Bags’ or puffiness is a separate issue to dark circles, although both problems can coexist, so the same person may have both dark circles and puffiness. As we age, the skin around the eyes becomes thinner, decreasing in laxity (it becomes loose). The subcutaneous fat pad which sits under the skin also starts to become thin and starts to descend, or ‘go south’. These factors can result in darkness and puffiness around the eye as fluid accumulates.

In general terms, the skin around the eye is thin and vulnerable to damage from UV radiation, pollution and the environment. Moisturising the area and wearing regular sunscreen is one of the best ways of preventing damage to ‘normal’ skin, as well as limiting further pigmentation problems once dark circles have already developed.

2. SPOT PRONE SKIN

Like most people, my phone goes everywhere with me. Studies have shown that touch screens contain large numbers of bacteria on their surface. The pressure created by placing your phone against your cheek may result in activation of the oil-producing glands. When this is combined with heat generated from the phone and bacteria present on the phone surface, skincare problems and imperfections may occur. If possible, try to use earphones and regularly wipe your smartphone surface clean. I carry wipes in my handbag to keep my phone as clean as possible.

Cleanse your face twice a day with a face wash designed for acne-prone skin (if you suffer from acne). Products that contain salicylic acid and zinc may be beneficial. Exfoliate your skin weekly – this will remove the upper layer of skin cells, resulting in a brighter complexion and will help to reduce blackheads.

Certain styling products, such as oils and waxes, can cause forehead acne, particularly blackheads or whiteheads because they block pores. If your hair is very oily, this may further aggravate the problem.

Ideally, it’s best to avoid wearing make-up to the gym. Sweat and increased temperature brought on by exercise can lead to open pores which can become blocked by particles of make-up. This can easily lead to breakouts and, in turn, other skincare problems like uneven skin texture.

Raised body temperature, sweat blocking pores and friction from clothes rubbing against the body combined by bacterial action can result in acne, particularly over the back and chest. To reduce the risk of this, it is important to shower and change into fresh clothing as soon as possible after exercise. Using body washes containing salicylic acid can be helpful to those prone to spots following exercise.

Make-up brushes often aren’t looked after properly and are a breeding ground for bacteria. Many laboratory-based tests where make-up items have been swabbed have shown the growth of all sorts of different microbes that can cause infection. Despite this, the majority of women do not clean their make-up bags or cosmetic products on a regular basis. Make-up brushes should be cleaned at least on a monthly basis – which many women neglect to do. Otherwise, bacteria can build up on the surface from constantly being in contact with our skin.

3. DARK SPOTS

Antioxidants have been the new big thing for a few years now. It’s hard to avoid coming across the word all the time in food and skincare but not a lot of people really understand them. They help our skin fight against the daily things that can cause ageing symptoms such as dullness, loss of elasticity, fine lines, uneven texture, wrinkles and dark spots.

Ultraviolet radiation from the sun is responsible for many of the features we associate with ageing – think fine lines, wrinkles, and blotchy, pigmented skin. Dark spots are flat brown marks that commonly appear on sun-exposed sites such as the face, neck, and hands. They most commonly develop in those with a fair complexion but can be seen in olive skin types also. They’re the result of excess skin pigmentation or melanin and are quite common in those aged over 40. These can be helped with certain skincare ingredients such as vitamin C, retinoids, kojic acid, niacinamide, arbutin, azelaic acid and alpha hydroxy acids. Failing this, there are clinic-based treatments which can be carried out by a dermatologist.

By your 40s (if not earlier) you should be using a retinoid cream at night. Retinoids are vitamin A-based products which have been proven to boost collagen production, improve fine lines and clear skincare problems like pigmentation, in scientific studies. Be patient though – it can take up to six weeks to see effects. Look for over the counter preparations that contain a minimum of 0.1% retinol as an ingredient. Otherwise consult a cosmetic dermatologist who will be able to prescribe you a prescription strength retinoid (e.g. tretinoin 0.05%).

Unfortunately, the sun is the biggest culprit in skincare problems around ageing. Prevention is easier than cure, so it is therefore imperative to wear a broad-spectrum SPF on sun-exposed sites such as the face, neck and hands. When choosing a sunscreen look for a high protection SPF (SPF30 or higher) to protect against UVB, and the UVA circle logo and/or 4 or 5 UVA stars. Ensure you’re applying plenty of sunscreen 15 to 30 minutes before going out in the sun, reapply every two hours and straight after swimming.

4. ENLARGED PORES

Because we are mammals, we are all covered in fine hairs over the face and body. Pores are simply the opening of tiny hair follicles onto the surface of the skin. They are not surrounded by a muscle and therefore do not have the ability to open and close. It is really common to hear myths about pore size – for example – steam or hot water will open pores. This myth is propagated by glossy magazines, beauticians, and even some doctors!

Those with oily skin tend to have the appearance of enlarged pores as oil tends to collect within them. Pore size can also become more apparent with age. As we get older, the proteins collagen and elastin, that give our skin its structural support, break down dragging the edge of the pore with it making it appear enlarged.

Lastly, genetics have a part to play – if your parents have large pores; chances are that you will as well. This is not to say we can’t help those that worry about their pore size. There are a number of treatments that can help minimise their appearance. These include the use of creams containing retinoids and procedures such as; chemical peels, micro-needling, and laser.

To keep common skincare problems like blackheads at bay there are a few options that you can turn to. These include regular facials with steam extraction, light chemical peels such as mandelic acid, using pore strips, exfoliation once a week, use of face washes that contain salicylic acid and topical treatments containing benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid or retinoids.”

5. DEHYDRATED SKIN

It can be tempting to take long, hot showers – particularly in the autumn and winter months when the weather becomes cooler and temperatures start to drop. The combination of water and soap or shower gel can lead to moisture loss from the surface of the skin and disruption of the skin’s barrier resulting in dryness or irritation. Those with underlying inflammatory skincare problems and disorders such as eczema or psoriasis need to be extra cautious. Showers should ideally be no longer than 10 minutes with tepid water.

This goes for the face and body. Yes, water in the shower can be too hot, but that’s because most of us take showers that are too hot, anyway.

Whilst it is tempting to jump into a hot shower for twenty minutes when it’s cold outside, this is probably one of the worst things you can do for your skin. Hot water will remove your skin’s natural oils and quickly deplete natural moisture.

Your skin forms a protective barrier against the elements and one of its main functions is to prevent water loss. In the winter months, there is less production of natural oils (e.g. ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids) resulting in increased dryness, scaling, and flaking of the skin. It is important to moisturise regularly to combat winter dryness. Moisturisers will bind and retain water, in addition to forming a protective seal preventing further water loss. For best effects, this is should be done straight after showering and then throughout the day as needed.

For clear skin, what we eat is absolutely vital. Plenty of water, a good balance of omega oils and lots of plant-based foods containing vitamins and nutrients help to achieve clear skin. But what about foods we should avoid?

Let’s consider the very real impact that what we eat can have on our skin. Chronic complaints such as psoriasis, eczema or rosacea shouldn’t just be thought of as skin conditions – think of them as gut conditions, the symptoms of which you see on the surface of the skin.

Good gut health is absolutely vital when it comes to getting to the root cause of skin issues. We have trillions of bacteria in our gut and they directly control the condition of our skin.

The role of our gut and its connection to both our brain and skin has been talked about for a very long time. In fact, 70 years ago, two dermatologists, John H Stokes and Donald M Pillsbury, first suggested an overlapping correlation between the gut and mood disorders such as anxiety and skin conditions. Way ahead of their time, these doctors proposed that emotional states might alter the normal gut microbiome, resulting in intestinal inflammation and permeability (commonly referred to as ‘leaky gut’), and contribute to systemic inflammation.

An anti-inflammatory diet focuses on lots of fruits and vegetables, foods containing omega-3 fatty acids, whole grains, lean protein, healthy fats, and spices. It recommends limiting the consumption of processed foods, red meats and alcohol.

Limit these food groups if you’re having problems achieving clear skin:

1. SUGAR

Cutting out refined sugar is key. And simply reducing the amount we add to our tea is not enough. It’s important to read ingredient labels, because refined sugar sneaks in under so many names; high fructose corn syrup, table sugar, cane sugar, and fructose – to name just a few.

If you suffer from a chronic skin condition, it might be best to avoid sugars altogether, certainly through an initial period of healing. However, if you absolutely cannot live without a sweet snack, natural sweeteners such as raw honey, maple syrup, apple sauce or agave nectar are better choice, low glycemic sweeteners. This means they may have a less intense impact on blood sugar levels and are not as likely to trigger skin flares and sensitivities.

2. REFINED CARBS

Carbohydrate rich foods include bread, pasta, cereal, crackers and doughy desserts. Studies show that people who frequently consume a large amount of cakes and pastries increased their risk of developing acne by 20%. This might be explained by the blood sugar and insulin spikes created when we eat refined carbohydrates. They’re absorbed quickly into the bloodstream making hormones more active and boosting sebum (oil) production. This in turn can wreak havoc on clear skin by clogging pores, which in turn causes the forming of pimples and blackheads.

To avoid problematic insulin spikes, opt for more complex carbohydrates and wheat-free grains such as spelt, amaranth, buckwheat and quinoa, which are low glycemic and will have less of an impact on blood sugar levels.

3. DAIRY PRODUCTS

Dairy products such as cheese, milk, butter and cream are considered pro-inflammatory foods. These can most definitely aggravate or worsen existing inflammatory skin conditions. Cow’s milk also contains amino acids, which stimulate the liver to produce more IGF-1, a growth hormone that’s linked to the development of acne.

It’s estimated that 75% of the world’s population is intolerant to lactose (the sugar found in dairy) and most of us aren’t even aware that we’re sensitive to it. Repeatedly consuming foods we can’t digest properly, can lead to longer-term digestive conditions. Food allergies and sensitivities can also trigger an inflammatory response, flaring pre-existing chronic skin complaints.

Thanks to the rise of veganism, dairy alternatives are plentiful these days. Replacing dairy with unsweetened nut milks and creams, such as coconut, almond or hazelnut, offers hormone, antibiotic and lactose-free substitutes, which will have less of a detrimental impact on the liver and digestive tract.

4. PROCESSED AND JUNK FOODS

When we eat too much processed food, we begin to lack the nutrients our body’s need to function efficiently. This leaves skin cells looking dry and depleted. Most fast food meals are deep-fried in refined vegetable oils such as canola, which is loaded with trans-fats. While ‘vegetable oils’ may sound deceptively healthy, they can aggravate skin conditions because they’re extremely high in omega-6 essential fatty acids.

This might sound confusing because Omega oils are considered to be healthy, but problems can arise when we have too many omega-6s and too little omega-3s in our diet. Omega-3s are natural anti-inflammatories and without them our bodies are more likely to show common signs of inflammation such as itching, redness and swelling.

Sometimes it seems impossible to avoid convenience foods, but fortunately more nutritious fast food restaurants are springing up, such as juice and salad bars. If you know in advance that you’ll be eating on the move, avoid junk food altogether by keeping healthy snacks such as protein bars, nuts, seeds and fruit to hand.

5. INDIVIDUAL SENSITIVITIES  

We are also susceptible to individual food sensitivities. These can occur when our immune system mistakenly identifies a particular food as a threat and launches an attack against it. This perceived enemy causes high levels of pro-inflammatory molecules to circulate which can aggravate sensitive skin and often results in the redness and flare-ups we see on the skin’s surface.

This is where an elimination diet can work really well. It can take a little trial and error and requires extra patience, but it works by temporarily restricting food groups in order to eliminate triggers and achieve symptomatic relief. The idea is to then gradually add foods back in while tracking symptoms and looking for notable correlations. Try keeping a food journal to get to the root cause of those irritating flares.