Finding the right products to suit our individual requirements isn’t always easy, but if part of your self-care pledge this summer includes spending a little extra time taking care of your complexion, learning which ingredients to avoid and which to include in your skincare routine can make all the difference.

My skin has always been problematic. Whilst school friends enjoyed dewy, flawless complexions, I battled teenage acne. My mum would buy me spot cleansers and creams, which rarely seemed to make much of a difference. Despite the pimples, my skin never really felt greasy. In fact, if anything, it was more on the dry and sensitive side. I was on a constant merry-go-round of products tailored for combination skin and brittle, damaged hair.

By my early twenties, I’d resorted to bulk ordering vast quantities of prescription products for my skincare routine. Whilst friends at uni cooed over the nourishing benefits of high street hair masks, there I was massaging in medically prescribed coal tar shampoo to keep my scalp psoriasis at bay. My bath and shower options centred mostly around paraffin based emollients, whilst my body lotion came in gigantic 500g tubs with pump action lids. I always ordered unscented – although anyone who has used aqueous creams regularly, will be familiar with the smell. It’s difficult to describe, a sort of plain, greasy scent, slightly sweet like emulsion paint.

At first glance, these bland, fragrance- free creams seem rather innocuous. Specifically designed for those of us with skin conditions, you’d assume they’d be the safest thing to apply as part of our skincare routine. It’s only years later, and with a better understanding of ingredients, that I have learned many of them should be used sparingly and others preferably avoided at all costs.

Petrochemical ingredients

When it comes to looking at the products in your skincare routine, it’s important to know that cheap, thick moisturisers and balms share similar properties. Petrochemical ingredients feature regularly, rendering them ’occlusive’. This means they form a barrier over the skin’s surface, trapping moisture in the top layer, giving us short term relief from dryness. Whilst initially this hit of hydration feels really good, long-term skin function can often be disrupted, causing existing conditions to worsen over time. The UK government notes that aqueous creams may ‘cause skin irritation’, whilst a study conducted by scientists at Bath University reported thinning of the skin and increased water depletion following the application of aqueous emollients.

Another significant health concern with petroleum products is their ability to generate 1,4-dioxane – a substance known to potentially contribute to some cancers. The Environmental Working Group (EWG) found that an alarming 22% of all conventional personal care products contain unsafe levels of 1,4-dioxane. Paraffin wax, paraffinum liquidum, mineral oil, toluene,  and benzene are all petroleum -derived ingredients to look out for in your skincare routine. They seal off the skin from air, water and anything else getting in or out. If you have very dry or sensitive skin, it’s especially important to avoid them.

Leave out the Lanolin 

Lanolin is another cheap ingredient used in cosmetic creams to lock in moisture. It’s often marketed towards healing eczema, burns, scrapes, psoriasis and extremely dry skin. Yellow and greasy in appearance, it’s secreted by sheep through the skin to condition their wool. Just like petrochemicals, lanolin creates a barrier upsetting the already compromised balance of our skins natural oils and blocks pores so that our skin can’t breathe – not a great addition to a skincare routine. Incidence of lanolin intolerance are rapidly increasing. A recent allergy study of over one thousand children with eczema found that 66% of them reacted to lanolin.

Haircare 

Whilst the importance of cosmetics seems logical for those of us with sensitive skin, what we massage into our hair should be considered equally significant. A shampoo not only cleans the scalp and hair as its primary function, it also serves to condition and nourish, and acts as an adjunct in the management of various scalp disorders.

Amongst the ingredients that go into the making of a shampoo are detergents, conditioners, thickeners, pH adjusters, preservatives and additives. Don’t forget, shampoo doesn’t just get massaged into the scalp, it comes into close contact with the palms of our hands and the delicate skin around our eyes as well, so understanding the impact of these ingredients is vital.

Parabens and Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) are commonly highlighted as two haircare ingredients we should avoid. Major high street brands have cottoned on to our universal dislike of them and often market their products as ‘paraben- and SLS- free’. But what are they and why are they a problem?

Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)

Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) is a chemical that’s commonly used in soaps, shampoos and shower gels. Its purpose is to trap oil-based dirt so that it can be rinsed away with water. As an effective foaming agent, it’s also the stuff that helps shower products lather. SLS is an incredibly harsh compound that makes hair strands swell up, and causes the outer cuticle layer to open. Once this happens, natural moisturisers seep out. This is an issue for everyone, but can be especially problematic for those of us with dry / brittle hair, a naturally curly texture, colour-treated or chemically-processed hair, or for anyone suffering from skin conditions such as eczema, dermatitis or psoriasis.

Parabens 

Parabens are preservatives that have been used not just in shampoos, but also makeup, deodorants, lotions, lipsticks, scrubs, and more. Parabens are thought to disrupt hormone function by mimicking oestrogen. A rise in oestrogen can trigger an increase in breast cell division and growth of tumours, which is why parabens have been linked to breast cancer and reproductive issues. Parabens can also sensitise the skin, causing allergic reactions.

Here are my top tips when shopping for skin and hair care

• • Look out for beauty ranges free from petrochemicals, parabens and SLS
  • Shop at health and wellbeing stores that support natural brands and clear labelling
  • Be prepared to invest a little more in the products you purchase. Premium ingredients are more expensive, but you will often find yourself needing less of the product to soothe, cleanse or hydrate
  • Check ingredients for listed allergens. Even natural essential oils such as lavender can trigger an allergic response in sensitive skin
  • Always patch test new products on the inside of your elbow or wrist to check for sensitivities

Switching to a Natural Skincare Routine

When the correlation between how we nourish ourselves internally and the health of our skin finally clicked for me six years ago, I also made changes to my external skincare regime. Whilst the market is awash with cheap, synthetic ingredients, there are equally some amazing botanicals with scientifically proven benefits.

Rather than preventing my skin from breathing through applying thick, greasy emollients, I began to look into simple essential oils and plant-based ingredients that would complement my skin’s pH, natural oil balance and support healing. I began by working with a local aromatherapist to tailor a selection of natural skincare. Harnessing the best of what plants have to offer requires intrinsic understanding of their complex molecular makeup and I eventually collaborated with the UK’s leading scientists to work on my range.

I wanted my skincare products to offer more than just another natural wellbeing line. Yes, sustainable packaging and cruelty free, vegan formulas were important, but my mission was to go over and above by creating topicals which addressed the very real struggles I’d experienced in battling with my own skin. Something to stop the incessant itch, something to soothe a flaky scalp, something to minimise the scarring caused by skin disease and a list of quality ingredients that would not only create minimal disruption for our skin’s natural oil balance, but equally support the healing process.

I didn’t want my creams to smell bad, or leave skin feeling greasy. I’d become so fed up over the years of boil-washing my bedsheets to try to rinse the oil out, it felt important to create something light, soothing and effective.

It’s responsible for every single thing in your life, so give it the respect it deserves. Here’s how to make sure your brain health is at its most tip top, with a little help from the experts.

1 Hone your decision-making skills

Next time you’re obsessing over a decision, take a second, stop, and remember what your instinct told you in the first place. Chances are that no matter how long a decision takes, it more than likely will be the same as your gut instinct.

Becoming a better decision-maker builds your confidence and sense of self, so it’s well worth investing in some good habits to make good choices. Here are our top tips:

• Get creative and look for solutions that aren’t that obvious. Not all problems are black and white, and thinking that they are can mean you get stuck.
• Give yourself a set amount of time. Small decisions get 10 minutes, big decisions get 20. You have an innate ability to problem solve, and setting a time limit forces you to believe in that. (You can do it).
• If you allow time to run out on a situation which means a decision is made for you by default, you’re inherently undermining your own abilities and self-confidence.

2 Rest up

You need sleep. Nope, you’re not talking to yourself in the mirror again – you really do. Your brain especially. Sleeping deeply is your brain’s chance to clean itself by activating the glymphatic system. Just like when you come home after the cleaner’s been; you’re not aware of it happening, but it feels so good to be all spick and span. And, it protects from degenerative diseases like Alzheimer’s (sleep, not a clean house).

To optimise your sleep, and help your brain in the process – here are some healthy sleep habits from Heights chief sleep scientist, Sophie Bostock.

• Wake up at the same time, at least five days a week. Yes, even if you’ve had late nights or toddlers. This helps to keep your body and brain’s circadian rhythms in sync.
• Gift yourself a lovely night time routine. This should be a relaxed, tech-free hour, when you can wind down, clear your thoughts (maybe write them down), and signal your brain that it’s time to switch off for a while.
• Build a luxurious cave. This is the optimum environment for sleep – think cool, dark, quiet, and free from outside distractions (like the TV).

3 Learn to control your stress response

How you respond to stress, rather than the stress itself, has the power to make or break a situation. Your body’s stress responses are actually designed to help you in life, not hinder you, so a change in your mindset towards stress can help you to control your mental, emotional and physiological responses to it. Try these quick fixes to train your brain to respond differently:

•  If you notice your hands getting clammy, or heartbeat starting to race, take it as a sign that this matters to you, and you are rising to the challenge.
• Remember that your response is a choice. Do you need to fight, freeze, face the challenge head-on or be extra courageous and ask for help?
• Show your appreciation for the people around you that support and contribute positively to your life. Doing this regularly fosters your need to connect, help others, and seek out people who might help you.
• If you’re especially stressed, try laughter. Laughter builds resilience, and this is a fact backed by gelotology (the science of laughter, we’ll have you know).

4 Get present

Mindfulness is a skill – and a hard one to master. To make it a habit, try the ODP method –

Observe. Describe. Participate.

Notice what’s going on, without any opinion or judgement, before reacting. Then describe what you are thinking and feeling to yourself to allow invaluable space to process. And finally, get stuck in, no matter the task. It’s easy to find ourselves on autopilot and just go through the motions, rather than fully engaging in it – when the act of losing yourself in a task or situation is about as mindful as it gets.

5 Nourish your neurons

What you eat is what you think. Or… something to that effect. We often view nutrition in terms of how it’s nourishing our bodies, but very rarely in terms of how it’s nourishing our brains. Here are the five foods to build into your dietary habits for optimal brain health, from Heights Dietician, Sophie Medlin.

Mackerel is a great source of omega 3 fat, specifically the brain essential DHA fatty acid, and an important source of B12, selenium and phospholipids. DHA makes up over 90% of the omega 3 fat content of the brain, and is essential to cell signalling and other vital tasks. Both DHA and phospholipids make up the cell membrane of brain cells.

Nuts are an important source of vitamin E, magnesium, zinc and selenium. Vitamin E may help to protect from age-related cognitive decline by maintaining the health of our brains. Magnesium, zinc and selenium are three essential trace elements. Deficiency of these nutrients is linked to confusion, depression, brain fog and insomnia.

Eggs are a great source of vitamin B12, vitamin D and phospholipids. Low vitamin B12 levels lead to fatigue, weakness and mood disorders such as depression. This can also be a symptom of low vitamin D levels, which are difficult to maintain in the winter months.

Berries, especially blueberries, are an important source of the phytochemical, anthocyanin. These are like antioxidants but they have lots of other health benefits including the ability to improve memory and focus, and protect our brains from age-related decline.

Broccoli is a great source of folic acid (folate) as well as choline. In studies, folate has been linked to a reduction in depressive symptoms, and is also essential for the production of neurotransmitters (chemical signals in the brain) and DNA.

6 Let go of your perfectionist tendencies

We’ve all got ‘em. Whether it’s obsessive tidying or triple and quadruple-checking emails before you press send, perfectionism is a thing. And it’s really damaging your ego. Let it go with these habit-forming behaviours:

• Try to change your mindset to reflect realistic expectations, that you are more than good enough to be a part of.
• Think about the standard you are holding yourself to, and if you’d do that to anyone else.
• Make decisions for yourself, to prove that you can trust you. There’s really no need to always get everyone else’s opinion, you know what you want to do – go for it.
• Stop fixating on where you need to be by taking a minute to appreciate and acknowledge where you are now, and how far you’ve come.

7 Communicate better

Unless your dad is the Dalai Lama, you might not have been taught how to communicate. Our bad comms habits are picked up from all kinds of places. Make a promise to yourself to get better, with these ways to retrain your brain.

• Clearly state what you want in the future, instead of focusing on things that went wrong previously (and that could take you further away from getting there).
• Deliver any criticism in between positive feedback. This softens the blow, and reassures the person that you still like them.
• Resist getting all Judge Judy on your significant other, which may cause them to feel shame and withdraw from you – instead, focus on how you can work together to solve the problem and move forward.

8 Learn to learn

Learning well is underrated. As a society, we’re always consuming, but how much are we remembering? Your brain needs practice to retain information – otherwise instead of a sponge, you’ve essentially got a colander. Try this new learning habit to become the pub quiz champion of the decade.

• Repeat what you’re trying to learn out loud, even if you don’t think you know enough to do it right. Each time you delve into your memory vault to retrieve information (even if you make mistakes), you update it with better understanding, so you learn more thoroughly. Reading or listening to the information encodes the information, and trying to remember it makes the information easier to retrieve.

 9 Get a move on

This is something that, after writing over a year’s worth of neuroscience newsletters, Heights’ co-founder Dan has adopted and he’s never looked back. He walks everywhere – and, of course, there’s the science to back it up.

Gym anxiety is pretty common, and doesn’t discriminate between genders and fitness levels – whether you’re an uber-fit marathon runner trying a different style of training, a super strong bloke who’s made the swap from home to gym workouts, or a new mum keen to get fitter and healthier, you’ve probably felt those pre-workout jitters.

In an age of Instagram workout videos and fitness models, feeling insecure about your lack of confidence with machines and equipment, or your own stamina and strength, is understandable – but just like with all new experiences (e.g. starting a job, taking part in a new social activity), the more you’re exposed to it, the easier it will get.

However, pushing yourself to go anyway, despite the uncertainty, is easier said than done, right?

Consider this your Gym Anxiety Toolkit – some tips and tricks for the nervous newbie on riding through the fear so that you leave your first few gym sessions feeling empowered and confident, irrespective of how far you ran or how much you lifted.

1. FOCUS ON YOU

Lots of people say that one of the main reasons that they struggle to go to the gym is because they’re worried that other people are judging them – whether that’s for their fitness levels, appearance, or lack of experience with using the equipment.

To get the most out of the gym, it has to be a much more insular experience. This is about you and your goals, so try to keep putting the focus back on you, rather than the people around you.

Mentally Re-label Negative Thoughts

When a thought like “everybody is judging me” comes into your head, call it out for what it is – just a thought with no proof of truth, not a fact that has evidence to back it up. Jumping to conclusions based on negative thoughts is known in Acceptance and Commitment Therapy (ACT) as cognitive fusion, and to counter it, you just need a bit of cognitive defusion.

A simple but effective mindful practice, cognitive defusion simply involves recognising that  “everybody is judging me” is just a negative thought, and altering it to something like “everybody is focused on themselves – I am just anxious because this is a new environment for me, and so I feel slightly out of my comfort zone”.

By simply re-framing your thoughts, you are ridding those anxious and unhelpful thoughts of their elements of certainty and physical power. Swapping irrationally worrying about what other people think, for recognising that this is just your mind’s anxious reaction to a new experience, is a great way to steer the focus of your workout away from the people around you.

Block off External Stimuli

Worried that people talking to you might let your mind wander back to anxiety, and away from your workout? Helpfully, there are loads of physical things you can do to make this less of an issue.

If the distraction of other people makes you feel self-conscious, then keep your mind busy, and block off the outside world. Going to the gym at off-peak times is a great way to do this, as there will be fewer people there, and so less of a chance of distraction.

Could really do without the approach of a well-meaning but alas, annoying, fellow gym-goer keen to chat? Pop on some headphones – the bigger the better. Listening to music or an audio-book can be great solutions for keeping your mind busy, and definitely make it less likely that you will be disturbed.

2. DO THE PREP

Walking around the gym trying to figure out what to do and how to do it can feel like a lot of on the spot pressure. Preparation is key – plan your workout before you go, but make sure it’s realistic.

So many of us are guilty of turning down the gym induction – but why? It’s a great opportunity to familiarise yourself with the machines and ask a qualified professional any questions that you might have. They will often also give you a fitness plan, so you can go into your first session with some idea of what you should be doing. On top of all of this – it’s generally free!

You can also do your research online. Social media is a great resource for workout inspiration, but just make sure that you’re watching videos of people with similar fitness levels to you – or at least content that is easily adaptable. Going to the gym armed with a workout is great – but only if it’s realistic. It should be challenging but not impossible, so start off easy and build yourself up. It’s much better to leave your first session feeling like you could have actually tried out something a bit harder, than completely lacking confidence and never wanting to go back.

3. LIGHTEN THE PRESSURE

Sure, they aren’t for everyone, but if you’re starting from scratch when it comes to exercise, and don’t really know how to begin, then how about heading to a fitness class? They are often included in the price of membership and can be a great way to learn some moves and circuits that you can then mimic in the gym, and just generally get your fitness journey off to a good start.

They might be a little bit daunting to go into, but many people find that because everybody is doing the same thing, they feel less consumed by anxious worries about people judging them. It’s a great option for anyone keen to lessen the pressure of planning workouts and doing everything correctly – you simply have to turn up.

If you’ve got the means, then getting yourself a personal trainer is another brilliant way to get the most out of your first few gym sessions, and take the planning out of your hands. With sessions tailored completely to your abilities, and guided one-to-one, you won’t have as much scope to worry about what machines to use, and how to use them, as you will have someone guiding you through it all.

Don’t fancy engaging too much with the fitness professionals? Bringing a friend along with you can be a great motivator, as well as a distraction from any obtrusive thoughts. It also means you’ve got someone to share the load of preparing workouts with, as well as an ally to let you know if they think you’re doing anything in not quite the right way.

Now, walk into that gym with confidence – you’ve got all the tools you need to have a great workout, that leaves you feeling super proud of yourself.